Pete Wells, probably my favorite food critic at the Times, retired a few weeks ago. So, they’re trying out an interim critic, Priya Krishna. And she immediately dove into the Pete Wells playbook visiting every Carbone in America just to slam it.
Early in Pete’s reign, he did something cheeky, clever, and of the moment reviewing Shake Shack, which had lines around Madison Square Park. It was a smart review at the time because Shake Shack was beloved, expanding to Brooklyn, and it had the support of the culinary community since Danny Meyer owned it.
Pete ties a through line from the beginning of the article linking the Shake Shack burger to the hot dog cart and New York City explaining that the original Shake Shack took over a Hot Dog Cart in Madison Square Park. Ultimately, he declares the hamburger inconsistent, but takes off the cape to sit down in the restaurant and look at it from the p…